How much does it cost to have a surfing vacation in Madagascar?
Well, off course it depends! Bellow I am going to try to describe different costs and options, and by giving examples hopefully the info will be good enough for you to make a rough budget.
Getting to Madagascar.
This will most probably be your biggest expense as it is quite expensive to fly to Mada. You will obviously do the ticket searching online for best prices, bellow is only indications.
Air France - 4 flights per week, Paris - Antananarivo
South African Airways - Daily flights Johannesburg - Antananarivo while Johannesburg is connected to multiple hubs around the world
Air Madagascar - direct flights to France, South Africa, Kenya and even Thailand
Air Mauritius - daily flights Mauritius - Antananarivo. Mauritius is connected to multiple hubs around the world.
Kenyan Airways - multiple flights per week, Nairobi - Antananarivo.
Air Italy - weekly flights Milan - Nosy Be where italians have established several luxary resorts, shipping in tourists directly there.
Air France - 4 flights per week, Paris - Antananarivo
South African Airways - Daily flights Johannesburg - Antananarivo while Johannesburg is connected to multiple hubs around the world
Air Madagascar - direct flights to France, South Africa, Kenya and even Thailand
Air Mauritius - daily flights Mauritius - Antananarivo. Mauritius is connected to multiple hubs around the world.
Kenyan Airways - multiple flights per week, Nairobi - Antananarivo.
Air Italy - weekly flights Milan - Nosy Be where italians have established several luxary resorts, shipping in tourists directly there.
- 1000 EUR from a European hub (Paris, London).
- Checking in boards vary (as always) depending on what kind of ticket you have and how many bags you are checking in etc. Worst case scenario with Air France is 250 EUR. With South African Airways it can even be free if within your allowed bagage and certain size. Make sure to call the airline and have them confirm what is valid for the moment as board policy always seems to be changing.
Accommodation
Everything can be found in Mada, from budget to luxury. It is more a question of what is available at the place you happen to be at, meaning that you could find yourself at spots where the simple bed/madras for 10 000 Ariary a night is the only option. Or on the contrary, where the 70 EUR a night, all inclusive lodge is the only option. Unless you are totally out of the beaten track, most of the time there will be options.
Antananarivo (the same goes for other bigger cities)
Budget – 20 000 Arairy
Luxury – 350 000 Ariary
The Holy Middle Way – 60 000 to 100 000 Ariary
If you are spending some time in Antananarivo the absolutely best thing is to stay in the town center Isoraka where you will find several smaller “holy middle way” hotels as well as great restaurants and cool bars. In the capital, nor in other bigger cities, there is no reason to go for the luxury as it really is not worth the money while the budget options are outside of where it happens, becoming somewhat of a hustle with arranging a cab as well as standard and security. HMW is the way to go!
Coast
Unless you are on Nosy Be or Ile Saint Marie, with few exceptions the accommodation becomes generally simpler on the coast and thereby usually cheaper as well.
A bungalow (double), with toilet&shower, mosquito net, some kind of light source in evenings (generator made electricity between 18.30 -22.00 is standard, after that solar charged lamp or included candles) can for sure be found for 40 000 Ariary which on the cost would be the holy middle way.
Lower standard would most of the time mean shared toilets, simpler furniture but still a decent sleeping place for a tired surfer, price around 15 000 Ariary.
Luxury would mean better furniture and bungalow, electricity around the clock (solar panels), a restaurant and yeah, higher price J 100 000 Ariary and up. Some of the luxury places tend to push for all inclusive deals which, by my opinion, totally miss the point of traveling to Madagascar.
Antananarivo (the same goes for other bigger cities)
Budget – 20 000 Arairy
Luxury – 350 000 Ariary
The Holy Middle Way – 60 000 to 100 000 Ariary
If you are spending some time in Antananarivo the absolutely best thing is to stay in the town center Isoraka where you will find several smaller “holy middle way” hotels as well as great restaurants and cool bars. In the capital, nor in other bigger cities, there is no reason to go for the luxury as it really is not worth the money while the budget options are outside of where it happens, becoming somewhat of a hustle with arranging a cab as well as standard and security. HMW is the way to go!
Coast
Unless you are on Nosy Be or Ile Saint Marie, with few exceptions the accommodation becomes generally simpler on the coast and thereby usually cheaper as well.
A bungalow (double), with toilet&shower, mosquito net, some kind of light source in evenings (generator made electricity between 18.30 -22.00 is standard, after that solar charged lamp or included candles) can for sure be found for 40 000 Ariary which on the cost would be the holy middle way.
Lower standard would most of the time mean shared toilets, simpler furniture but still a decent sleeping place for a tired surfer, price around 15 000 Ariary.
Luxury would mean better furniture and bungalow, electricity around the clock (solar panels), a restaurant and yeah, higher price J 100 000 Ariary and up. Some of the luxury places tend to push for all inclusive deals which, by my opinion, totally miss the point of traveling to Madagascar.
Transport on Madagascar
Madagascar is 2000 km long, and up to 600 km wide island with a quite poorly developed road infrastructure and almost no railroad. Still, thousands Taxi Brousses, trucks and private cars drive around Mada every day. The combination of road conditions and distance makes flying a huge time saving option but not an inexpensive one. Domestic flights are provided only by Air Madagascar which all in all is quite reliable. Again, everything is possible in Mada, it comes down to what you want to do, how much time you have and what you can afford.
Flying
Most flights are between Antananarivo and the districts. Some direct flights between main districts. Ticket prices are 150-180 Euros, one way. Usually 30 kg language is included and surf boards can be checked in as normal language. Visit www.airmadagascar.com , however it is usually cheaper to buy directly at Air Madagascar office in Antananarivo (see My Services) even though some of that advantage disappeared since a “resident – non resident” price differentiating was introduced early 2013.
Still, if you are short on time and want to do a Antananarivo – Tulear (and surroundings) trip an one way flight will help you out time wise and save some bruises on your butt.
Car rental
All kind of cars can be rented, a 4wd is recommended but you can manage without depending WHERE and WHEN you want to go. Normally car rental includes a driver (and his food and lodging). Having a driver is recommended if you are going off the beaten track since the driver usually knows the roads, but more importantly he is a semi mechanic and knows how to solve problems during the trip. If you really insist driving yourself this can be agreed upon with some of the rental companies. You are always paying for the gas (most of the cars are diesel). If you are terminating your rental somewhere else than where you rented the car, you have to pay for the days and gas it takes for the driver to drive back.
Car rental prices
Normal sedan, 5 seat ca 100 000 Ariary / day including driver
Big 4x4, 7 seat ca 150 000 Ariary/ day including driver
Gas, Diesel ca 3000 Ariary / liter, assume 10 liters / 100 km.
Road distances and drive times, assuming no night driving
Tamatave Tulèar Fort Dauphin Mahambo
Antananarivo 360 km, 1 day 930 km, 2 days 1100 km, 2-3 days 450 km, 1 day
Tulèar to Fort Dauphin - 595 km, minimum 3 days if you drive straight. RN10, the wild surf road of the south. RN10 is not a coast road, in order to get to Anakao, Itampolo, Lavanono and other coast villages one have to get of RN10. This takes time. If you want to make this a surfing trip visiting all the surf on the south you need 2 weeks minimum, minimum!
Tamatave (Mahambo) to Fort Dauphin - 1428 km, 5 days if driving straight, only during dry season May-October, a wild discovery trip along the east coast.
Taxi Brousse (Bush Taxi)
By far the most common way of transport in Madagascar. You can get anywhere with a Taxi Brousse and it will be the cheapest way to get there. However, it will take you time and it will be uncomfortable, especially if you are a person longer than 180 cm. At the same time, if you really want to get to know Madagascar, Taxi Brousse is a must try.
They do stop for leg stretching, toilet and food. One can make it more comfy for oneself by buying multiple seats (buy 3 seats and you have a bed) but you might have to bear with the look of the old woman in front of you, holding her grand kid and 2 chickens in her lap. There are more and more luxury Taxi Brousse options poping up, but right now only from Antananarivo to Mahajanga and Tamamatve.
I do not think that Taxi Brousse is more dangerouse than any other public transportation in developing countries. Off course, lack of seat belts, bad roads, drivers driving for long stretches etc are all risk increasing factors. Some of them can be managed (insist that your spot on the TB has a seat belt), for the others, well, it is part of the trip.
Tulèar Fort Dauphin Tamatave Diego Suarez
Antananarivo 45000 Ar,16 h 85000Ar, 36h 20000 Ar, 10h 65000 Ar, 24h
Flying
Most flights are between Antananarivo and the districts. Some direct flights between main districts. Ticket prices are 150-180 Euros, one way. Usually 30 kg language is included and surf boards can be checked in as normal language. Visit www.airmadagascar.com , however it is usually cheaper to buy directly at Air Madagascar office in Antananarivo (see My Services) even though some of that advantage disappeared since a “resident – non resident” price differentiating was introduced early 2013.
Still, if you are short on time and want to do a Antananarivo – Tulear (and surroundings) trip an one way flight will help you out time wise and save some bruises on your butt.
Car rental
All kind of cars can be rented, a 4wd is recommended but you can manage without depending WHERE and WHEN you want to go. Normally car rental includes a driver (and his food and lodging). Having a driver is recommended if you are going off the beaten track since the driver usually knows the roads, but more importantly he is a semi mechanic and knows how to solve problems during the trip. If you really insist driving yourself this can be agreed upon with some of the rental companies. You are always paying for the gas (most of the cars are diesel). If you are terminating your rental somewhere else than where you rented the car, you have to pay for the days and gas it takes for the driver to drive back.
Car rental prices
Normal sedan, 5 seat ca 100 000 Ariary / day including driver
Big 4x4, 7 seat ca 150 000 Ariary/ day including driver
Gas, Diesel ca 3000 Ariary / liter, assume 10 liters / 100 km.
Road distances and drive times, assuming no night driving
Tamatave Tulèar Fort Dauphin Mahambo
Antananarivo 360 km, 1 day 930 km, 2 days 1100 km, 2-3 days 450 km, 1 day
Tulèar to Fort Dauphin - 595 km, minimum 3 days if you drive straight. RN10, the wild surf road of the south. RN10 is not a coast road, in order to get to Anakao, Itampolo, Lavanono and other coast villages one have to get of RN10. This takes time. If you want to make this a surfing trip visiting all the surf on the south you need 2 weeks minimum, minimum!
Tamatave (Mahambo) to Fort Dauphin - 1428 km, 5 days if driving straight, only during dry season May-October, a wild discovery trip along the east coast.
Taxi Brousse (Bush Taxi)
By far the most common way of transport in Madagascar. You can get anywhere with a Taxi Brousse and it will be the cheapest way to get there. However, it will take you time and it will be uncomfortable, especially if you are a person longer than 180 cm. At the same time, if you really want to get to know Madagascar, Taxi Brousse is a must try.
They do stop for leg stretching, toilet and food. One can make it more comfy for oneself by buying multiple seats (buy 3 seats and you have a bed) but you might have to bear with the look of the old woman in front of you, holding her grand kid and 2 chickens in her lap. There are more and more luxury Taxi Brousse options poping up, but right now only from Antananarivo to Mahajanga and Tamamatve.
I do not think that Taxi Brousse is more dangerouse than any other public transportation in developing countries. Off course, lack of seat belts, bad roads, drivers driving for long stretches etc are all risk increasing factors. Some of them can be managed (insist that your spot on the TB has a seat belt), for the others, well, it is part of the trip.
Tulèar Fort Dauphin Tamatave Diego Suarez
Antananarivo 45000 Ar,16 h 85000Ar, 36h 20000 Ar, 10h 65000 Ar, 24h
Bike
If I have the time I prefer to go on my bike. This is not the easiest way, but absolutly the coolest :) Rental prices and more info will be added soon.