Location
90 km north of Tamatave, this beautiful east coast village is home to some luxuriant vegetation, beautiful beaches, very easygoing locals and some nice, fun surf. The tranquility is the main mode of the village but does get interrupted by a village party every two to three weeks. A guitar will be playing somewhere most of the nights as song, beer & rum are part of what the locals call “The good, easy life in Mahambo”.
Surf/Spot description
Mahambo has become my “home spot” as I have spent a total six weeks (and counting) there. I have never witnessed a flat day so there by I will call it a consistent spot. In Mahambo village you will find no less than 4 spots (3 reefs and one beach break) and 1 reef spot in the neighbouring "village" of Ambatmalama..
Beach Cafè Reef is a right hander that the local kids surf a lot. Personally I have never seen it bigger than head high as it breaks in south direction (from south and east swells that are turning into the bay) but usually clean and nice as the prominent south wind is offshore for this spot.
La Point is a beautiful right-hander that is breaking just outside of the resort Pirog. This wave can get heavy, fast and hollow, recommended for a bit more experienced surfers, mid to high tide. Even here the local crew will paddle out on smaller days but if it gets bit you will most likely find yourself alone wondering when and where to take off J
Be Maxim Reef is the longest wave in Mahambo village. The braver and better surfer you are the longer you can make this wave as you can take off more on the inside. As the most common and the biggest swells are from the south and are hitting this reef straight on it can get really big and heavy. Of course, the most common wind is from the south or south east which is a pity but most mornings the wind is not a factor and some days there are north winds transforming this spot into a classy wave. The reef can also handle a bit of south wind but the ride gets a bit choppy.
Be Maxim Beach break is the beach where you will always find a wave. On days with no wind or north wind (offshore) and a swell of 5 foot and up, this spot is host to some perfect lines lining up to hit the beach. I have had 2-3 big days surfing alone and believe me, Be Maxim gets you focused and perfectly scared, all Mora Mora flies out the window and you find yourself sharper than ever. Most days however it is a normal, good beach break where you will always find something to surf. Pay attention to the tides as high tide produces too much back wash. Even if small and windy, rent a SUP and surf on. Local French ex pat Remy is likely to be found on Be Maxim (either the beach or reef) charging his SUP twice per day.
Ambatmalama From Be Maxim, the beach continues (into a bay) for 6ish km. On the other tip of the bay you will find Ambatmalama which has to be the most consistent spot. Waves are breaking of the tip of the cape and on good days you are up for a 200m right hander ride. Finnish the wave off right on the beach and walk back to the entrance point, jump in, paddle for 10 meters and go again J This is one of few point breaks that I have surfed where I feel totally safe but still get a pretty good wave with a decent wall to work on. South wind is not a problem here, on smaller swells it even seems to help. According to the local surfer it can get big at Ambatmalam, 3xoverhead some say, getting hollow and creating a strong current, transforming this spot to an “advanced only” but I have yet to witness one of those days. Due to all exiting and entering I recommend booties for this spot. Off course, you can always paddle back to the take of point J
Shark Situation
Mada east coast is sharkwater, from what I am told. Having said that, I have not seen a single one. Mahambo surf is shark free! One reason is that in Tamatave there is a big slaughter house that lets out huge amount of blood in the water making Tamatave area very shark dense. Furthermore, I have talked to surfers who have years of experience and no one has ever seen a shark in Mahambo. Local fishermen give the same story, saying that occasionally they will se and catch a shark but always a couple of km out in the deep waters behind the reefs.
Surf to explore
On my way north of Mahambo, towards Ile Saint Marie I have seen several spots, beach breaks as points. There is much to discover, accessibility is ok, places to stay can be found (however, local standard where you should count on a madras on the floor) and on the coast there is plenty of good food where ever you go. The same goes for south of Tamatave, even better accommodation but for both of these discovery options you have to take into account the sharks, especially if close to Tamatave. Take your time, talk to the fishermen and the locals. Also remember, in Mada, if you ask a questions you will most probably get an answer, whether the person you are asking knows or does not know the answer :)
Beach Cafè Reef is a right hander that the local kids surf a lot. Personally I have never seen it bigger than head high as it breaks in south direction (from south and east swells that are turning into the bay) but usually clean and nice as the prominent south wind is offshore for this spot.
La Point is a beautiful right-hander that is breaking just outside of the resort Pirog. This wave can get heavy, fast and hollow, recommended for a bit more experienced surfers, mid to high tide. Even here the local crew will paddle out on smaller days but if it gets bit you will most likely find yourself alone wondering when and where to take off J
Be Maxim Reef is the longest wave in Mahambo village. The braver and better surfer you are the longer you can make this wave as you can take off more on the inside. As the most common and the biggest swells are from the south and are hitting this reef straight on it can get really big and heavy. Of course, the most common wind is from the south or south east which is a pity but most mornings the wind is not a factor and some days there are north winds transforming this spot into a classy wave. The reef can also handle a bit of south wind but the ride gets a bit choppy.
Be Maxim Beach break is the beach where you will always find a wave. On days with no wind or north wind (offshore) and a swell of 5 foot and up, this spot is host to some perfect lines lining up to hit the beach. I have had 2-3 big days surfing alone and believe me, Be Maxim gets you focused and perfectly scared, all Mora Mora flies out the window and you find yourself sharper than ever. Most days however it is a normal, good beach break where you will always find something to surf. Pay attention to the tides as high tide produces too much back wash. Even if small and windy, rent a SUP and surf on. Local French ex pat Remy is likely to be found on Be Maxim (either the beach or reef) charging his SUP twice per day.
Ambatmalama From Be Maxim, the beach continues (into a bay) for 6ish km. On the other tip of the bay you will find Ambatmalama which has to be the most consistent spot. Waves are breaking of the tip of the cape and on good days you are up for a 200m right hander ride. Finnish the wave off right on the beach and walk back to the entrance point, jump in, paddle for 10 meters and go again J This is one of few point breaks that I have surfed where I feel totally safe but still get a pretty good wave with a decent wall to work on. South wind is not a problem here, on smaller swells it even seems to help. According to the local surfer it can get big at Ambatmalam, 3xoverhead some say, getting hollow and creating a strong current, transforming this spot to an “advanced only” but I have yet to witness one of those days. Due to all exiting and entering I recommend booties for this spot. Off course, you can always paddle back to the take of point J
Shark Situation
Mada east coast is sharkwater, from what I am told. Having said that, I have not seen a single one. Mahambo surf is shark free! One reason is that in Tamatave there is a big slaughter house that lets out huge amount of blood in the water making Tamatave area very shark dense. Furthermore, I have talked to surfers who have years of experience and no one has ever seen a shark in Mahambo. Local fishermen give the same story, saying that occasionally they will se and catch a shark but always a couple of km out in the deep waters behind the reefs.
Surf to explore
On my way north of Mahambo, towards Ile Saint Marie I have seen several spots, beach breaks as points. There is much to discover, accessibility is ok, places to stay can be found (however, local standard where you should count on a madras on the floor) and on the coast there is plenty of good food where ever you go. The same goes for south of Tamatave, even better accommodation but for both of these discovery options you have to take into account the sharks, especially if close to Tamatave. Take your time, talk to the fishermen and the locals. Also remember, in Mada, if you ask a questions you will most probably get an answer, whether the person you are asking knows or does not know the answer :)
Accommodation
In Mahambo there are several places renting out bungalows, in total probably offering 150 beds and my estimate is that there are in average 10 tourists in town / week. In other words, no need to worry about finding a place, more about the preference. I have stayed in different places every time I have visited, in order to share the wealth and get to know the people. Here I my objective comments:
Ylang Ylang – specious, clean bungalows close to the swimming beach and La Point and Beach Cafè spots, 40 000 Ariary / night. Kitchen can serve breakfast and dinner if you order in advance.
Vanilla Cafè – simple but clean bungalows and the best restaurant in village. Run by a group of childhood friends who left their rapping carriers and made the move from Fianarantsoa to Mahambo, the food is fresh and served with love and a smile. Bungalows are 25 000 Ariary / night and the mains are from 10 000.
Dola – this place is on the beach, looking at La Point. Strangely enough it seems almost deserted which I personally like. The owner is a friendly Spaniard who has lived in Mada for 30 years. 30 000 Ariary/night.
Pirog- Mahambo’s only resort with everything that comes with resort life. The only place with internet. Bungalows ca 100 000 Ariary. Bike and Quad rentals for a trip to Ambatmalama.
Pil Pil Manga Surf Camp – Pil Pil is Yannick’s and Mimi’s home. In their beautiful garden they have built 2 simple bungalows for friends and occasional visiting surfer who drifts by. Pil Pil can help you out with board rentals & repairs, boogey boards, SUP rentals & Lessons, motorbike rentals and whatever else you possibly might need. Do yourself a favor and provoke Yan to take you out surfing as he knows these waters. If you are staying at Pil Pil (15 000 for bungalow) you are eating in Mimi’s kitchen – you eat what you order and most of the time, you can order everything ( I usually ask Mimi to buy lots of seafood, whatever is good for the day, and then I do not worry about it more, ending up munching fresh fish, lobsters, squid and mussels till I cannot eat anymore )
Beach Cafê – Lionel & Vanessa are the French couple with tones of experience of owning and running restaurants, which you easily feel once you stay and eat at Beach Cafê. After a cyclone destroyed their old bungalows they have just finished building 4 mini suits. Well thought through, luxury feeling, with warm water!!!! Beach Cafê is the only place in Mahambo with electricity 24/7, driven by powerful solar panels.
Ylang Ylang – specious, clean bungalows close to the swimming beach and La Point and Beach Cafè spots, 40 000 Ariary / night. Kitchen can serve breakfast and dinner if you order in advance.
Vanilla Cafè – simple but clean bungalows and the best restaurant in village. Run by a group of childhood friends who left their rapping carriers and made the move from Fianarantsoa to Mahambo, the food is fresh and served with love and a smile. Bungalows are 25 000 Ariary / night and the mains are from 10 000.
Dola – this place is on the beach, looking at La Point. Strangely enough it seems almost deserted which I personally like. The owner is a friendly Spaniard who has lived in Mada for 30 years. 30 000 Ariary/night.
Pirog- Mahambo’s only resort with everything that comes with resort life. The only place with internet. Bungalows ca 100 000 Ariary. Bike and Quad rentals for a trip to Ambatmalama.
Pil Pil Manga Surf Camp – Pil Pil is Yannick’s and Mimi’s home. In their beautiful garden they have built 2 simple bungalows for friends and occasional visiting surfer who drifts by. Pil Pil can help you out with board rentals & repairs, boogey boards, SUP rentals & Lessons, motorbike rentals and whatever else you possibly might need. Do yourself a favor and provoke Yan to take you out surfing as he knows these waters. If you are staying at Pil Pil (15 000 for bungalow) you are eating in Mimi’s kitchen – you eat what you order and most of the time, you can order everything ( I usually ask Mimi to buy lots of seafood, whatever is good for the day, and then I do not worry about it more, ending up munching fresh fish, lobsters, squid and mussels till I cannot eat anymore )
Beach Cafê – Lionel & Vanessa are the French couple with tones of experience of owning and running restaurants, which you easily feel once you stay and eat at Beach Cafê. After a cyclone destroyed their old bungalows they have just finished building 4 mini suits. Well thought through, luxury feeling, with warm water!!!! Beach Cafê is the only place in Mahambo with electricity 24/7, driven by powerful solar panels.
How to get to Mahambo
Assuming you are starting your trip in Antananarivo :
If you rent a car it takes you 9 hours to arrive at Mahambo (460 km). Leave Tana at 6 in the morning and enjoy the sunset session in Mahambo.
If you go by Taxi Brouse they leave around 16ish from Antananarivo, or gathering time is 16.00, Taxi Brouse (destination Fenerive Est) leaves when it is full. Usually you arrive in Mahambo at 6-7 in the morning the day after.
If you prefer to fly there are daily flights to Tamatave (45 minutes). From Tamatave you take a Taxi Brouse. The total trip time will end up at some 7 hours anyway so I would recommend to rent a car, see some of Madagascar on your way, spend some money on the local economy (the car rental & driver) and save some money at the end of the day.
Links
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSer0jiW6XA Pil Pil Manga, Ambatmalama
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8gNdpc0Zk8 Be Maxim, never seen this many people on a surf spot, anywhere on Mada!! But apperantly, it can happen.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z8gNdpc0Zk8 Be Maxim, never seen this many people on a surf spot, anywhere on Mada!! But apperantly, it can happen.